From Sudder Street to New Market: A Lunch at Raj’s Spanish Café

 

Since it was a weekday, we decided it was the perfect day to finally try out a place we had been wanting to visit forever. Both the name and the location had intrigued us. Raj’s Spanish Café—the name itself might make one a little suspicious about the authenticity of the Continental cuisine on the menu, but its location on Sudder Street made us curious.

Sudder Street is, after all, Kolkata’s famous foreign backpacker and tourist hub. So if a Spanish café had been sitting here for years, catering largely to an international crowd, surely there had to be a reason for its longevity!

Getting to the centre of the city is not exactly one of my favourite things, particularly when parking is involved. Somehow, though, we managed to park in front of Jamuna Banquets. From there, it was a short walk through a narrow lane that brought us onto Sudder Street, with Raj’s Spanish Café just around the corner.

Our first impression was… interesting.

The café had an outdoor seating area, and while we were a little taken aback, we were certainly not deterred. The murals on the walls immediately caught my attention. Then I took a peek inside—and suddenly everything made sense.

The place was packed!

There was a wonderful humdrum of conversations in a dozen unintelligible dialects. Foreigners everywhere! The restaurant was bustling and absolutely packed to the rafters. Clearly, Raj’s Spanish Café had found its audience.

One of the staff members came to the door and explained that we would have to sit outside because there were no tables available inside.

There were two tables outside—one completely empty and another half occupied, but with enough seating for two. We opted for the latter. At least it had a fan!

So, we settled down and started checking out the menu. Orders had to be placed through an app, which I have to admit was quite techy for a place that otherwise looked like it had accumulated decades of character!

And what a menu it was. There was some seriously tempting food to choose from.

While we were deliberating, more and more people kept arriving. Then, just when we had resigned ourselves to sitting outside, the server came over and told us that a table had become available inside.

Would we like to move?

Most definitely. Yes, please!

We stepped inside into this wonderfully electric atmosphere—tables packed on either side, conversations flowing, food arriving and people from all over the world enjoying themselves.

Our table was right at the very end of the restaurant, which meant we had to walk through the entire length of the café to get there. And that walk was fascinating.

Every inch of the walls seemed to have a story.

Marker-pen signatures, names, messages and random scribblings covered practically every available surface. Patrons had written on the walls, the windows and, unbelievably, even the ceiling. It felt less like graffiti and more like a living guestbook created over the years by travellers from around the world.

Once seated, we couldn't help looking at what everyone around us was eating. Judging by the plates passing our table, we knew we were in for a good lunch.

I ordered an Oreo Shake, while my wife opted for a bottle of Coca-Cola.

For the main meal, we went with a Lasagna de Pollo, Spicy Chicken Pizza, and Espinacas Salteadas—fried spinach with garlic and fried seafood.

The food arrived in what seemed like record time.

And then we dug in.

Boy, was it worth the effort it had taken to get here!

The food was delicious, the atmosphere was infectious, and there was something wonderfully unpretentious about the whole place. It wasn't trying to be fancy. It was simply doing what it had clearly been doing for years—serving good food to a constantly changing crowd of locals and travellers.

And then came another little episode that perfectly summed up Raj’s Spanish Café.

While we were eating, a young Spanish girl sitting nearby suddenly got hold of a marker. She wanted to add her own message to the ceiling. Unfortunately, with the café completely packed, there was no easy way to reach it.

Her solution?

She climbed onto the window sill right next to us and proceeded to leave her mark!

Only in a place like this.

Somewhere around halfway through our meal, one of the older members of the staff found an empty spot next to us and sat down. We got chatting.

And what followed was one of those wonderfully unexpected conversations that Kolkata is so good at producing.

We talked about Kolkata, food, the city's culture, the changing times, the past and all sorts of things in between.

Basically, adda.

It was delightful.

By the time we had finished our meal, we had become so comfortable that when we ordered dessert to be packed, he actually took us into the kitchen because I had mentioned that I wanted to see the pizza oven.

That little gesture made the experience even more memorable.

Raj’s Spanish Café was an absolute delight.

But our afternoon wasn't over yet.

Having come all the way into the heart of the city, my wife was adamant that going back home without visiting New Market would simply be wrong.

And, well… she did have a point.

We were only a street away.

So off we went.

New Market is one of those places that remains indispensable no matter how many shiny new malls Kolkata acquires. If you want something unusual, something specific, something you simply cannot find in a mall, chances are you'll find it somewhere inside this glorious maze.

And, of course, being in New Market meant there was one more thing we couldn't possibly leave without doing.

Nahoum’s.

A little shopping, a little wandering around, and naturally, some goodies from Nahoum’s had to come home with us.

And then, on our way back, we decided to make one more stop—Westside on Free School Street.

And wouldn't you know it…

There was a SALE on!

Now, let me ask you…

After everything we had already eaten and shopped for that afternoon, do you really think we simply walked past?

Did we shop some more???

Well…

Of course we did!

The Great Ilish Feast at The Tollygunge Club

 

We had been waiting for this lunch for a long time. One of our annual gastronomic traditions is the Hilsa Festival at The Tollygunge Club in Kolkata—and, as always, it promised to be a celebration of our favourite fish, Ilish.

This year's feast began with a few starters and a beverage, but we all knew where the real excitement lay. What followed was quite possibly the biggest spread of Hilsa imaginable.

There was Hilsa Bhaja, Hilsa Bhapa, Hilsa Jhol, Hilsa Tok and Hilsa Murighoto, accompanied by all the Bengali essentials—steaming Bhaat, Bhaja Moonger Dal, Begun Bhaja, Alu Bhaja, Green Salad, Gondhoraj Lebu, Papad and Pineapple Chutney.

Course after course arrived, and every preparation brought its own character to the table. Crispy, steamed, rich, tangy, spicy and comforting—there seemed to be no end to the ways in which Ilish could be transformed into something delicious.

And then came dessert. Nolen Gurer Ice Cream, Rajbhog and Mishti Paan brought this magnificent feast to its sweet conclusion.

Did we have an Ilish Feast? Absolutely!

In fact, bets were laid on how many pieces of Ilish one could possibly manage. And believe you me, some of those bets were won!

We were the first people to arrive, settling in for a lunch that began at 12 noon, and somehow, we ended up being among the last to leave—walking out well past 3 in the afternoon.

Three hours of Ilish, conversation, laughter and an unapologetically indulgent Bengali feast.

Some lunches are simply meals. This one was an annual ritual, a gastronomic challenge and a celebration of Ilish all rolled into one.

Until next year's Hilsa Festival… Ilish, we shall meet again!

Sweet Redemption at Bonne Creme

 

After the mix-up at lunch, my wife and I needed something to lift our spirits that afternoon. We needed a little sweet resurrection for our rather downed spirits—and we found just the place for it: Bonne Creme.

The Café District of Kolkata is perfect for moments like these. Every time you find yourself in the neighbourhood, there seems to be a new joint waiting to be discovered. This time, it was an ice cream place with some of the smartest and most tastefully done interiors we had come across.

The ice cream tubs immediately caught our attention.

The first flavour that caught my eye was Godhoraj Lemon. I asked for a taster and, the moment I tried it, I knew this was the one for me. The refreshing citrusy punch was exactly what I needed.

My wife, meanwhile, embarked on her own serious ice cream investigation. She went through what seemed like half a dozen flavours before finally settling on Almond Nougat Salted Caramel, even though they had a Matcha & Jasmine flavour. Well, you know my wife and her Matcha obsession by now, but I think today's quota of Matcha was done at Ariko!

One large scoop each, served in a cone, and we simply sat back and enjoyed our ice creams.

As I looked around, I realised that Bonne Creme was a venture by Balaram's, which made perfect sense given the attention to detail and the quality of what was being served.

And just like that, the afternoon had been redeemed.

Sometimes, all it takes is a really good ice cream to turn a disappointing day around. For us, Bonne Creme provided the perfect sweet ending—and the perfect redemption—to an otherwise rather eventful afternoon.

Potato Jackets, Matcha, Mix-Ups & a Little Bit of Bengali

 

We wanted to have a light late lunch and decided to try out a place that had been getting rave reviews. They were making waves because they specialised in potato jackets, and the menu certainly looked interesting.

By the time we reached the place, a light drizzle had started. We got inside, and since we were hungry, we got straight to ordering.

My wife, as you know by now, has been swept up in the Matcha craze, so she ordered a Strawberry Matcha, while I went for an Oreo Shake. I settled on a Smoky Pulled Chicken from their Signature Jackets, while my wife ordered a Non-Veg Supreme from the Classic Jackets.

While ordering, however, there was our first little hiccup. The menu clearly mentioned that Bacon was included in my wife's selection, but we were told that Bacon would cost extra because the menu had been updated but the printed copies hadn't yet been changed. Fair enough, we accepted that, although it didn't exactly sit well with us.

Then there was another small irritation. The girl attending our table kept speaking to my wife in Bengali, even though my wife was speaking to her in English. And no matter how many times my wife continued in English, the Bengali continued.

As an afterthought, we also ordered some Jalapeño Long Fries from the Spud Bites section.

Anyway, the Strawberry Matcha and my Oreo Shake arrived. My wife was quite happy with her Matcha, but I was seriously disappointed by the shake. It seemed to be little more than cold milk blended with cocoa powder to create some froth, with a single Oreo biscuit dropped into it. Not quite the Oreo Shake I had imagined.

Then my Smoky Pulled Chicken Jacket arrived, and I tucked straight in. My wife managed to take a couple of nibbles, but her jacket was nowhere to be seen. It finally arrived after I had completely finished mine, followed shortly afterwards by the fries.

Surely, when two people arrive together for a meal, the common-sense thing would be to serve their dishes more or less together?

Thankfully, the timing debacle didn't take away from the taste. The Jalapeño Long Fries were unique, crispy and tasty. And my jacket was actually delicious. Who knew a humble potato jacket could be so flavoursome?

But then came the kicker.

When the bill arrived, we found ourselves charged for everything—yes, the extra Bacon as we had been told—but also for two additional Chicken toppings in our jackets that we hadn't ordered!

At that point, my wife lost it. The girl serving us immediately had the bill corrected and was apologising profusely.

But, as they say, damage done.

My wife paid the bill and promptly informed me that we were never coming back here.

I, on the other hand, am a little more accommodating. I always tend to think things through with my tummy.

If my tummy thinks it's yummy, we're coming back!

So, yes, we probably will return once the heat dies down and the memory of this rather chaotic experience has faded. Because despite all the little irritations, the potato jackets themselves were genuinely good—and that's ultimately what brought us here in the first place.

Two Hours at Rabindra Sarobar While My Wife Got Her Nails Done

While my wife settled in for her long-awaited nail appointment, I decided to make the most of the time. Since I already had my camera with me, the obvious destination was Rabindra Sarobar, barely a five-minute walk away.

Stepping through the gates, I headed east along the pathway that hugs the lake. Rabindra Sarobar has always been one of Kolkata's most beautiful green spaces. The tranquil waters, the towering trees and the abundance of birdlife make it a welcome escape from the city's relentless pace. Yet, as beautiful as it is, I couldn't help but notice that the place could do with better maintenance. Sadly, much of the deterioration is also self-inflicted by the public. Steel dustbins have disappeared, several street lamps are missing, and despite the strict no-smoking rule, groups of youngsters were casually smoking in different parts of the park. It's unfortunate to see such a wonderful public space treated with so little respect.

The lake, however, was very much alive.

The rowing clubs were out in force that afternoon, with crews gliding gracefully across the water. I wandered over to a rescue motorboat that had pulled up near the shore and struck up a conversation with the two lifeguards on board. They told me that three such rescue boats now patrol different sections of the vast lake, a safety measure introduced after the tragic drowning of rowers a few years ago. It was reassuring to know that such precautions are now in place.

Naturally, the rowers became my first photographic subjects. The rhythmic movement of the boats against the calm water made for some wonderful images before I continued my walk in search of something different.

As I wandered further, another sight caught my attention—not through my camera lens, but through observation. Many of the young boys around the lake were completely engrossed in their mobile phones, immersed in online shooting games. Here they were, surrounded by one of the city's finest natural settings, yet seemingly oblivious to the beauty around them. It felt rather sad to see nature losing out to a digital battlefield.

Thankfully, nature still had a few rewards waiting.

I came across a smaller lake almost entirely carpeted with water lilies and water hyacinth. The lush green cover and scattered blooms created a peaceful scene that was irresistible to photograph. Sometimes the quieter corners offer the most satisfying subjects.

Without realising it, nearly two hours had slipped by. It was time to make my way back towards Southern Avenue and return to the nail salon.

Earlier during my walk, I had noticed a flashing beacon on the opposite side of the lake. Through the trees and bushes, I could just make out a pink Tata Safari slowly making its way along the internal road. I wanted to photograph it, but it was simply too far away and too well obscured by the foliage.

As luck would have it, just as I was about to leave through the main gate near Nazrul Mancha, the very same pink Tata Safari pulled up nearby. I walked over and struck up a conversation with the lady police officer inside. We chatted for about ten minutes, and before leaving, I asked if I could take a photograph of the vehicle. She graciously agreed.

So here it is—the distinctive pink Tata Safari Storme used exclusively by the Ladies Police Force of the Kolkata Police. This particular vehicle is assigned to patrol the Rabindra Sarobar lakes area, serving as both a reassuring presence and a symbol of the force's commitment to public safety.

On the walk back, just outside Vivekananda Park, one final subject presented itself. A CESC electrical junction box, painted with artwork from the iconic Bengali film Hirok Rajar Deshe, featuring the legendary Soumitra Chatterjee, had unfortunately been defaced by vandals. It was another reminder that while there are sincere efforts to beautify Kolkata, they can only succeed if citizens learn to value and protect these public artworks.

By the time I reached the car, it had been a leisurely fifteen-minute walk from the lake, and my wife was ready. What had begun as a way to pass the time during a nail appointment had unexpectedly turned into two enjoyable hours of photography, conversation, quiet reflection and a renewed appreciation for one of Kolkata's finest urban escapes.

Sometimes, the best outings are the ones you never planned.

Below are some photographs I clicked with my Camera.

Dragged to a Nail Appointment... and Rewarded with a Culinary Surprise

 

Sunday afternoons are usually reserved for taking it easy, but this one had a different agenda. My wife wanted to get her nails done before the work week began, and naturally, I got drafted into the outing.

Apparently, getting a nail appointment these days is harder than getting tickets to a popular concert. Sure enough, when we arrived, we were told that he was free till 5 p.m. Rather sitting down there and getting on with it, we decided to make the most of the unexpected free time. The plan was simple—grab lunch somewhere nearby, after which she could head back for her appointment while I spent a leisurely couple of hours around the lakes.

Just around the corner, we stumbled upon ONETON—a takeaway counter with a cosy little dining space next door. With seating for barely sixteen people across three tables and a wall counter, it was compact, practical and inviting.

We were warmly welcomed by Biman, as we later learnt his name, and he turned out to be one of those genuinely pleasant people who instantly make you feel at home. We chatted with him throughout our meal, and his enthusiasm for the food was infectious.

To begin, we kept things simple with chilled glasses of Thums Up, each served with a slice of lime. Then came our first dish—the Osaka Sushi. Eight beautifully presented pieces that disappeared from the plate far quicker than we had expected.

Next up was the Devil's Pork, followed by Biman's personal recommendation—the ONETON Special Bacon Rice. What an incredible suggestion that turned out to be! The rich, smoky flavour of the bacon combined with perfectly cooked rice and eggs transformed what could have been an ordinary rice dish into something truly memorable. It was comfort food elevated to another level.

Feeling nostalgic, I couldn't resist ordering an American Chopsuey as well. By this point, Biman politely suggested that we might have ordered a little too much for just the two of us. We laughed and explained that we were there to sample as much of the menu as we could, fully expecting that we'd end up packing the leftovers for dinner. As it turned out, he was absolutely right—and so were we. We enjoyed a wonderful lunch and had enough packed away for our evening meal.

Just when we thought the experience was over, Biman returned with a pleasant surprise. Without us asking, he walked over carrying a short-stemmed glass holding a generous scoop of their handcrafted Cookie Dough Ice Cream, made in-house. "You have to try this," he insisted.

One spoonful was all it took to understand why.

Restaurants are often remembered for their food, but occasionally it's the people who make the experience unforgettable. ONETON gave us both.

Three things will definitely bring me back: Biman's warm hospitality, the phenomenal ONETON Special Bacon Rice, and that outstanding handcrafted Cookie Dough Ice Cream.

Not bad for an afternoon I never wanted to be on in the first place.