Sometimes the best evenings are the ones that aren't planned beyond a simple dinner invitation.
I had finally met Neema Kudva, someone I had been chatting with over WhatsApp for the past couple of months. My mother-in-law had connected us because Neema was planning a visit to Kolkata for a research paper and project centred around Durga Puja. Having spent years exploring the city and documenting its heritage, I was happy to share a few insights and connect her with people who could help make her visit more meaningful.
When we finally met at my in-laws' home, it felt anything but awkward. Conversation flowed effortlessly and the evening quickly dissolved into laughter, stories and endless conversations. At one point, my father-in-law looked at us and asked, "So, how long have you known each other?" He simply couldn't believe that we were meeting in person for the very first time.
Then came one of those wonderfully unexpected moments.
Neema mentioned that she was staying somewhere around the Shyambazar area. Naturally, I suggested that she should visit Calcutta Bungalow, one of the city's most charming heritage stays. She smiled and replied, "That's where I'm staying!"
Suddenly everything made sense. Until then, I had been wondering why she had chosen that part of the city. I went on to tell her that Iftekar Ahsan, popularly known as Mister Calcutta, owns Calcutta Bungalow and is also the founder of Calcutta Walks, whose heritage walks are among the best ways to experience old Kolkata. Before I could recommend one, she laughed and told me she had already been on one. Clearly, the previous few days had been incredibly productive, and she had managed to cover a remarkable amount of ground for her research.
As dinner came to an end, my wife and I offered to drop her back. It gave us the perfect excuse to drive across the city and finally see Calcutta Bungalow for ourselves. After a leisurely drive through the late-night streets, we reached the beautifully restored heritage property and were treated to a quick tour before beginning our journey home.
But the night still had a few surprises in store.
Instead of taking the usual route back, we drove down APC Road. As we reached Hatibagan, we were stunned to find the carriageway reduced to a single lane. The entire stretch had transformed into a bustling marketplace. Curious, we pulled over and asked one of the stall owners what was happening.
He explained that this was one of Kolkata's oldest haats, held every Tuesday and Saturday night, operating from around 10 p.m. until 7 a.m. (it apparently used to begin as early as 7 p.m.). According to him, the market had existed for well over fifty years, perhaps even longer. It was astonishing in scale—a full-fledged all-night bazaar, alive with shoppers, vendors and an energy that only Kolkata can produce.
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