TURQUOISE CHILL

  Since it was a weekday, we decided it was the perfect day to finally try out a place we had been wanting to visit forever. Both the name and the location had intrigued us. Raj’s Spanish Café —the name itself might make one a little suspicious about the authenticity of the Continental cuisine on the menu, but its location on Sudder Street made us curious. Sudder Street is, after all, Kolkata’s famous foreign backpacker and tourist hub. So if a Spanish café had been sitting here for years, catering largely to an international crowd, surely there had to be a reason for its longevity! Getting to the centre of the city is not exactly one of my favourite things, particularly when parking is involved. Somehow, though, we managed to park in front of Jamuna Banquets. From there, it was a short walk through a narrow lane that brought us onto Sudder Street, with Raj’s Spanish Café just around the corner. Our first impression was… interesting. The café had an outdoor seating area, and while ...

  We had been waiting for this lunch for a long time. One of our annual gastronomic traditions is the Hilsa Festival at The Tollygunge Club in Kolkata —and, as always, it promised to be a celebration of our favourite fish, Ilish. This year's feast began with a few starters and a beverage, but we all knew where the real excitement lay. What followed was quite possibly the biggest spread of Hilsa imaginable. There was Hilsa Bhaja, Hilsa Bhapa, Hilsa Jhol, Hilsa Tok and Hilsa Murighoto , accompanied by all the Bengali essentials—steaming Bhaat, Bhaja Moonger Dal, Begun Bhaja, Alu Bhaja, Green Salad, Gondhoraj Lebu, Papad and Pineapple Chutney . Course after course arrived, and every preparation brought its own character to the table. Crispy, steamed, rich, tangy, spicy and comforting—there seemed to be no end to the ways in which Ilish could be transformed into something delicious. And then came dessert. Nolen Gurer Ice Cream, Rajbhog and Mishti Paan brought this magnificent feast to...

  After the mix-up at lunch, my wife and I needed something to lift our spirits that afternoon. We needed a little sweet resurrection for our rather downed spirits—and we found just the place for it: Bonne Creme . The Café District of Kolkata is perfect for moments like these. Every time you find yourself in the neighbourhood, there seems to be a new joint waiting to be discovered. This time, it was an ice cream place with some of the smartest and most tastefully done interiors we had come across. The ice cream tubs immediately caught our attention. The first flavour that caught my eye was Godhoraj Lemon . I asked for a taster and, the moment I tried it, I knew this was the one for me. The refreshing citrusy punch was exactly what I needed. My wife, meanwhile, embarked on her own serious ice cream investigation. She went through what seemed like half a dozen flavours before finally settling on Almond Nougat Salted Caramel, even though they had a  Matcha & Jasmine flavour....

  We wanted to have a light late lunch and decided to try out a place that had been getting rave reviews. They were making waves because they specialised in potato jackets , and the menu certainly looked interesting. By the time we reached the place, a light drizzle had started. We got inside, and since we were hungry, we got straight to ordering. My wife, as you know by now, has been swept up in the Matcha craze, so she ordered a Strawberry Matcha , while I went for an Oreo Shake . I settled on a Smoky Pulled Chicken from their Signature Jackets , while my wife ordered a Non-Veg Supreme from the Classic Jackets . While ordering, however, there was our first little hiccup. The menu clearly mentioned that Bacon was included in my wife's selection, but we were told that Bacon would cost extra because the menu had been updated but the printed copies hadn't yet been changed. Fair enough, we accepted that, although it didn't exactly sit well with us. Then there was another sma...

While my wife settled in for her long-awaited nail appointment, I decided to make the most of the time. Since I already had my camera with me, the obvious destination was Rabindra Sarobar, barely a five-minute walk away. Stepping through the gates, I headed east along the pathway that hugs the lake. Rabindra Sarobar has always been one of Kolkata's most beautiful green spaces. The tranquil waters, the towering trees and the abundance of birdlife make it a welcome escape from the city's relentless pace. Yet, as beautiful as it is, I couldn't help but notice that the place could do with better maintenance. Sadly, much of the deterioration is also self-inflicted by the public. Steel dustbins have disappeared, several street lamps are missing, and despite the strict no-smoking rule, groups of youngsters were casually smoking in different parts of the park. It's unfortunate to see such a wonderful public space treated with so little respect. The lake, however, was very much ...

  Sunday afternoons are usually reserved for taking it easy, but this one had a different agenda. My wife wanted to get her nails done before the work week began, and naturally, I got drafted into the outing. Apparently, getting a nail appointment these days is harder than getting tickets to a popular concert. Sure enough, when we arrived, we were told that he was free till 5 p.m. Rather sitting down there and getting on with it, we decided to make the most of the unexpected free time. The plan was simple—grab lunch somewhere nearby, after which she could head back for her appointment while I spent a leisurely couple of hours around the lakes. Just around the corner, we stumbled upon ONETON —a takeaway counter with a cosy little dining space next door. With seating for barely sixteen people across three tables and a wall counter, it was compact, practical and inviting. We were warmly welcomed by Biman, as we later learnt his name, and he turned out to be one of those genuinely plea...