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North-East Trip: Bomdila to Tawang via Sela Pass

Day 3 started on a bit of a panic mode. We had to find ourselves a vehicle to get us to Tawang and Rs. 4500/- for a one way trip was just not acceptable. So we made our way down to the market where the taxi stand was. After a asking around we finally managed to negotiate a Tata Sumo for Rs. 9000/- for 3 days. So we’d have the car with us to take us to Tawang, indulge in some local sight seeing the next day and then drop us to Dirang.

Negotiation done, we got into the vehicle and immediately started our local sight seeing. There were basically two Buddhist Monasteries to see in Bomdila, the smaller one near the market place and the much larger one which was on the road to Tawang. After seeing the first Monastery, we headed back to our hotel, got our Rucksacks, checked out and got on our way onwards and upwards.

The next Monastery was a bit unlike the traditional ones you see, with hints of more modern architecture, but it was big. Having seen it, we started our descent towards Dirang. As we crossed Dirang, we stopped at a Hot Water Spring just on its outskirts. From there we could see the apple orchards on the mountainside across the river.

Again it was upwards and this time towards the famous Sela Pass. On our way, we crossed several Army Convoys and many Army bases. The military presence had intensified the higher up we went. The BRO (Border Roads Organisation) work force carving our mountain sides and GREF (General Reserve Engineer Force) excavators, bulldozers and dumper trucks were present around every corner. Work I heard had started in 2000 on the two laning of this mountain road to Tawang. From the look of it, I would say it would take another decade before it would get done. Those Mountain sides seemed unforgiving.

Anyway, we could now see that we were heading up towards the snow capped mountains. Signs of vegetation and greenery were giving way to the black and grey rock faces. Needless to say the road seemed to getting more treacherous too, winding its way up the mountain side till we came upon the typical Oriental Type gate of Sela Pass. Fortunately it wasn’t windy and at 13,700 ft, with snow all over, it was cold. As we crossed the gate, the beautiful Sela Lake presented itself. We drove by the lake and stopped at the other end to take in the picturesque view before we descended into the valley beyond. This was the last point we could take pictures. As we descended the valley, it was one Military installation after another.

We again started upwards towards Jaswant Garh, a war memorial in honour of the brave soldiers who lost their lives at the Battle of Nuranang during the Indo-China War of 1962. Its truly is a place where one feels inspired reading about the battle and how the soldiers laid down their lives to defend the country. A battle they lost, but a legacy of bravery and honour left behind. The site also has graves of the Chinese Soldiers who lost their lives in the battle. In my mind I thought, after being up in these mountains for the past couple of days, how they performed their duties, defending what to me looked like worthless pieces of rocks. Over the past two days, it seemed to me, that the region had nothing. No vegetation, no natural resources, no nothing and yet two countries went to war over this land. Anyway a cup of tea here while chatting with one of the Jawans was an eye opening insight into their lives and the three years they spend up in these mountains during their tour of duty. They truly deserve a Salute.

Now it was the last surge to Tawang, a steep descent down to Jung and then it was a steep upward journey to Tawang. On the way we stopped at mesmerizing Jung Waterfall; millions of litres of white water plunging down a sheer rock face of several hundred feet, it was a sight to behold. By early evening we made it into Tawang. And check into our hotel. We did go out for a stroll in the evening as darkness fell, but didn’t get very far with the heavy downpour which brought us back indoors.

We’d have to leave the sight seeing for the following day. I mean, we had already seen a lot on our way here and were quite content.






The Gentse Gaden Rabgyel Ling Monastery, Upper Gompa, Bomdila was started by the 12th reincarnate of Tsona Gontse Rimpoche in 1965 - 66. The Gompa is a replica of Tsona Gontse Monastery at Tsona in South Tibet, established during 15th century.

The 12th reincarnate was born in the Morshing, Kalaktang Circle of West Kameng. He constructed this modest Gompa before his demise in the year 1966. The present Rimpoche, the 13th Tsona Gontse Rimpoche commenced the construction of the main prayer hall, which was consecrated by His Holiness, the 14th Dalai Lama on 13th October 1997.
















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